Wave height
Topic: Movements of Ocean Water: Waves, Tides and Currents · NCERT: Class 11, Ch 13 "Movements of Ocean Water"
Meaning
Wave height is the vertical distance from the bottom of a trough (the lowest point of a wave) to the top of a crest (the highest point). It shows how much energy a wave carries. Wave height depends on wind strength, how long the wind blows, and fetch (the stretch of open water the wind blows over in one direction). A gentle breeze makes only ripples. A strong wind blowing for a long time over open sea builds tall waves with white caps.
Example
The Southern Ocean has some of the greatest wave heights in the world, because strong westerly winds blow over a huge, unbroken stretch of water.
Don't confuse with
- Amplitude: only half the wave height. It is measured from the middle level of the water up to the crest.
Related concepts
- Wave
- Orbital motion of water particles
- Fetch
- Wavelength
- Swell
- Breaking of waves
- Longshore drift
- Kallakkadal